A failed hot water tank is more than an inconvenience; it’s a typical household issue that may impact your comfort and safety every day.
Veteran Plumbing Services knows what homeowners can expect from aging water heaters—gas or even electricity.
From detailed inspections to the setting up of new, low-energy models, we provide solutions so you always have hot water whenever you want it.
Hot Water Supply is inconsistent: Having trouble with at times lukewarm, occasionally boiling hot water? It is a typical indication of a failing water heater.
No Hot Water: Wake up to cold showers is a rude awakening nobody enjoys. A failing water heater makes you shiver.
Noisy Operation: A bang, creak or even knocking water heater is shouting for help.
Leaky Tank: Water around your heater is messy – it could harm your house and create mold.
Rusty Water: Rust-colored water indicates internal tank corrosion that may compromise water quality and heater operation.
Pilot Light: A pilot light that will not stay lit might abruptly stop your gas water heater.
Lukewarm Water: When your water heater fails, obtaining that ideal shower temperature is impossible.
High Energy Bills: Inefficient water heaters may increase your fuel or electricity bill.
Noisy Tank: Your tank might rumble and groan from sediment buildup.
Leaks of Water: Age and corrosion could cause tank leaks and substantial water damage.
Chilly Showers: A failing water heater makes your hot shower icy without warning.
Water Connection Problems: Eventually, fittings and connections could fail causing leaks or water pressure issues.
Rusty Water: Corrosion inside the tank can release rust into your water and signal a replacement.
Complete Breakdown: An old water heater might cease working altogether and you have no warm water.
Frequent Resets: If you keep restarting your water heater it can suggest bigger issues.
Safety Risks: Older water heaters could have flames or carbon monoxide leaks.
Lack of Hot Water Volume: Your growing family might use more hot water than your old unit can offer.
Space Inefficiency: Traditional tank heaters take up room ; newer models might clear out room.
Environmental Impact: Old units use more energy and emit more emissions.
Maintenance Hassles: Water heaters get more frequent and more costly upkeep with age.
We at Veteran Plumbing Services see how essential a functioning water heater is in your household.
That is the reason we provide inspections, replacements and diagnostics on a personalized basis for your budget and needs.
Choose from high-quality, energy efficient water heaters for reliable hot water, low electricity bills and peace of mind.
A: “No heat? Gas or electric? Gas: pilot light out? Electric: breaker tripped? Simple checks first.”
A: “Still cold? Thermostat busted? Or electric heating element fried? Time for a real check, not just lookin’ at it.”
A: “Dragon? Sediment buildup, kid. Sediment noise. Tank flush needed. Ignore it = shorter water heater life.”
A: “Puddles = bad. Leaking tank. Tank’s rusting out. Replacement likely. Start calling plumbers, pronto.”
A: “Eau de sulfur? Sulfur smell. Anode rod reacting, or sulfur bacteria. Anode rod check, maybe system cleaning.”
A: “Rusty water = rust inside. Rusty water. Tank rusting? Or anode rod over-sacrificing. Inspection needed, ain’t good.”
A: “5 min showers? Back in my day… Short hot water. Undersized heater? Sediment? Heating issue? Dip tube? Gotta diagnose.”
A: “Electric vs. Gas. Gas: heats faster, maybe cheaper to run. Electric: cheaper to install, maybe safer, efficient options. Gas needs vent. Truck vs. Sedan, depends what you need.”
A: “Tank vs. Tankless. Tankless: on-demand, space-saving, efficient if low hot water use. Tank: reliable, cheaper, high hot water use. Sports car vs. Minivan, depends on family size.”
A: “Break after 10 yrs? Planned obsolescence! Water heater lifespan. Tank: 8-12 yrs avg. Tankless: 20+ yrs maybe. Maintenance matters. Treat it right, it lasts longer.”
A: “Baby your heater? Water heater maintenance. Annual tank flush (sediment). Anode rod check (every few yrs). Leak checks (regular). Don’t overheat water. Preventative plumbing, simple as that.”
A: “Anode rod, not sci-fi, plumbing science! Anode rod. Sacrificial metal rod. Protects tank from rust. Replace it = longer tank life. Plumbing superhero inside your heater.”
A: “Tank flush frequency. Annual water heater flush – yep, yearly good for most. Especially hard water. Less sediment, better efficiency, longer life. Worth it.”
A: “DIY flush? DIY water heater flush. Can DIY if handy & careful. Drain tank, flush sediment. But… be careful with gas/electric/hot water. Not confident? Call plumber. We do it daily, no basement floods.”
A: “Size matters! Water heater sizing. Tank (gallons): 30-40 (2 people), 40-50 (4 people), bigger for big families/soaking tubs. Tankless (flow rate/temp rise): plumber calc needed based on your hot water use. Don’t undersize or oversize.”
A: “Efficiency ratings! Water heater efficiency – Energy Factor (EF). Higher EF = more efficient. Look for high EF to save money. Simple.”
A: “Direct vent vs. power vent. Direct vent: sealed, safer, outside air in/out. Power vent: fan-forced exhaust, flexible venting, needs electric. Power vent for basements often. Direct vent pricier, maybe better.”
A: “Hippie heaters, haha! Heat pump water heaters. Legit efficient tech. Super efficient electric. Move heat, don’t just make it. Cost more upfront, maybe noisier. Consider electric savings.”
A: “Gov’t help? Water heater rebates/tax credits. Yes, for heat pump and some condensing gas. Utility rebates, state programs, federal tax credits. Check DSIREUSA.org, local utility websites. Free money (kinda), look into it.”
A: “Tankless nightmare? Tankless install complexity. Yes, more complex than tanks. Gas tankless: bigger gas line, vent system, electric hookup. Electric tankless: major electrical upgrades. Tankless isn’t always a swap, factor in install costs.”
A: “Electric to gas? Tricky. Electric to gas conversion. Possible, not simple/cheap. Gas line run, venting needed, electric cap-off. Big job. Plumber quotes. Maybe stick with electric (or heat pump electric).”
A: “New house choice: Gas vs. Electric for new build. “Better” depends. Gas: fast heat, maybe cheaper to run. Electric: simpler install, maybe safer, heat pump option for efficiency. Plan ahead with builder, plumber.”
A: “Mixing valve, not martinis! Mixing valve. Mixes hot/cold water. Safer temp at tap (anti-scald). Get more hot water from smaller tank too. Safety and hot water trickery.”
A: “Piggyback tank? Expansion tank. Yes, needed now with closed plumbing. Water expands when heated, pressure builds. Expansion tank = pressure buffer. Prevents damage, relief valve spitting. Plumbing heart attack preventer.”
A: “Repair or replace? Repair vs. Replacement. Crystal ball’s broken. Tank heater over 8-10 yrs old, major repair? Replace. Minor repair on newer unit, maybe repair. Plumber opinion. Weigh costs. Old faithful vs. shiny new machine. We can help decide, no pressure, unless it’s plumbing pressure, then we fix that too!”